Whether you spend a small fortune on your foundation, or are thriftier in your approach to cosmetics, professional application techniques are essential if you want to maximize the value of your investment. As its name suggests, foundation (or base), is the makeup step upon which all subsequent cosmetics you apply rely, therefore, you need to master this step if you are serious about presenting a polished look.

From liquids to powders, gels to minerals, and age-defying to oil-control formulations, regardless of your skin type there is a foundation out there to correct any skin imperfections you may have, and give your skin that airbrushed look we all crave. Sample as many different brands and formulations as possible before purchasing, and research some of the online cosmetics review boards for unbiased opinions without the sales pitch. Allow sales assistants to advise you wherever possible, but never feel pressured into buying a product unless you are 100% certain you have found the right foundation for you.

Color Selection
The advice proffered by magazines and beauty books for years now has been to find a color clone, a shade of foundation that is imperceptible when applied to the jaw line or behind the ear, but professional makeup artists never limit themselves in this way, and nor should you. If your skin is clear and healthy, and you are willing to spend extra time blending carefully around your hairline, jawline, ears and neck, there is no reason why you shouldn’t use a darker shade of foundation to create a tanned appearance.

The most important element to selecting base color is to stick within your own tonal family, paying particular attention to whether you have neutral, red, or yellow undertones, and be realistic about the depth of color your complexion can carry. Never expect your skin to wear a shade darker than it would naturally tan.

If you are uncomfortable with the idea of using a darker shade, apply a color clone foundation first then add color afterwards using a finely milled bronzing powder. The best bronzers contain an array of colors that create a natural, multidimensional finish, as opposed to single pigmented powders which should only be used for facial contouring, as they leave your skin looking dull and lifeless when used on the entire face.

Skin Prep
Perfectly exfoliated skin is essential. Oil clogged pores, and dry, flaky patches of skin subvert foundation by discoloring and altering the texture of the formulation, and prevent the product from gliding effortlessly across the skin. Exfoliate your skin at least once a week and always the day before a special occasion.

Lips are frequently overlooked until the application of lipstick, but tending to them at this stage will improve the polish of your look. Take a warm face flannel, or an old toothbrush, and buff your lips to remove any dry flakes of skin. Next, work in a small amount of lip balm or cream, removing any excess with a tissue. It is frequently advised that you should also apply foundation to your lips but, unless you use a particularly moisture rich formulation, doing so will only zap precious moisture from this delicate area. Applying balm to your lips before foundation works as a barrier to prevent this.

If you want to take advantage of your natural eyebrow color, rather than building color from scratch once foundation is applied, a slick of balm on the brows also discourages product from gathering in this area.

Primed and Plumped
There is a wide array of primers on the market that promise to fill in wrinkles and smooth your skin, allowing for perfect base application. Whilst many of these are excellent, always bear in mind the effect that applying another layer of product can do to your skin. Many primers contain silicone which can plug your pores and cause more problems than they solve, and others can work against the skin, starving it of oxygen, so are not suitable for daily use.

As with foundation, shop around and do some research. If you can find a formulation that suits your skin, and you can afford the added cost, primer can make a significant difference to your makeup, but a good moisturizer can work equally well if you utilize the correct application technique.

Moisture Application
If you want to use a day cream in place of primer it is essential that the formulation is perfectly suited to your skin type. If your moisturizer absorbs quickly and cleanly, and doesn’t slick around on the surface of your skin before eventually subsiding, it will easily double as primer. Skin should feel plump and hydrated to the touch, without any residual slip, and remember to use sparingly at first and add more if needed.

Work a small amount of moisturizer into the dry areas of your skin using a slightly dampened, professional quality foundation sponge. The best sponges are made of a smooth, compacted sponge and, in this case, wedge-shaped. By gently pushing the product into your skin using this technique, you control both the amount and the location of moisture being added, thus eliminating the need to wait until the product settles before applying foundation.

Base Application Approach
If you plan to wear dark or heavy eye makeup, a great professional technique is to apply your eye makeup (both foundation and color), prior to applying foundation to the rest of your face. This saves those precious minutes spent removing stray shadow particles and smudges from your previously pristine base, and ensures that your face remains flawless throughout the day.

The foundation application technique in this article assumes that you will apply your base in its entirety before dressing your eyes, but you can easily adjust the technique according to your own preferences and, either way, you are certain to achieve a perfectly polished effect.

Foundation Applicators
Wherever possible, and for best results, apply foundation with a top quality, natural bristle, foundation brush. They have a remarkable impact on the finish of your base as they allow for far greater control over the placement, texture and finish of your foundation than any other application technique.

Some foundation formulations preclude the use of a brush, or perhaps the portability of a sponge is simply preferred, so ensure that you use a good quality, compacted sponge. It is often necessary to replace the sponge that comes with a new compact foundation as cosmetic companies, even high end brands, tend to cut corners where this vital piece of kit is concerned. A new, compacted sponge can make all the difference to a product you previously dismissed.

Application Technique
Beauty magazines and sales assistants frequently suggest only applying foundation to the areas that need it but, unless your complexion is near perfect to begin with, using foundation over your entire face will produce a far more professional finish.  Without a skilled hand, and foolproof lighting, using the patch technique can create a muddied look, and the difference in texture between your skin and the product will be obvious close up.

Using downward strokes, and in the direction of the soft facial hair, apply the foundation a little at a time, paying careful attention to the eye sockets, hairline, ears, neck and nose.
When you are satisfied the foundation is evenly distributed, and you have achieved a blank canvas on which to work, take a dry cotton wool pad and gently wipe any areas of your face where too much product has adhered. The hairline is frequently overlooked in this regard, and is one of the most common giveaways to the presence of foundation. The upper lip is another area that should never be ignored.

Mineral Foundation
Mineral Foundations are becoming increasingly popular, and for good reason. They rarely contain the skin damaging ingredients so often found in regular foundation formulations, and are incredibly versatile in coverage control. When correctly applied, mineral foundation provides a flawless finish comparable to any foundation on the market. The secret to precision application? Moisture.

The most beautiful effect to be had using mineral foundation can be achieved by taking advantage of the natural oils in your skin. Whenever possible, wait for an hour or more after cleansing your face before applying minerals. The minerals gel with the natural oils in your skin and give you an ethereal glow.

When your face is dry, particularly in the winter, relying on the natural moisture in your skin to use minerals can prove unreliable. Utilising the moisturizer application technique described in this article will provide the next best finish, and is useful if you are short of time.

Conceal
It is important that you have two concealers in your arsenal. Choose one light textured, light-reflecting formula to cover minor blemishes and the under-eye area, and one thicker formula with good staying power for general blemishes.

You frequently come across blue and green colored concealers that promise to cover a multitude of sins, but these can be awkward to use, and often end up drawing more attention to the areas you want to disguise. As long as you have a good quality, wax textured concealer (a shade lighter than your foundation), and a firm bristled make-up brush to apply it with, you should be able to cover most imperfections and fill minor pock-marks.

Scrutinize the area around your nose in different lights to determine whether you need to apply concealer to this area, or whether translucent powder will suffice.  Eradicating all trace of redness around the nose can maximize the polish of your look. It will also erase the natural coloration that defines your nose should you wish to experiment with changing your look using contouring techniques.

To eliminate those stubborn blemishes and discoloration marks, sandwich whisper thin veils of translucent powder between sheer films of concealer, building upon each layer until you have the best coverage. Take a clean, soft-bristled eye shadow brush and blend the edges of the powder into the surrounding areas of skin to ensure an even complexion.

The under-eye concealer should be one or two shades lighter than your foundation, and should be applied either with your ring finger, or a soft-bristled, flat make-up brush. Push the product right up to the lower-lash line and into the corners of the eye for an even finish.

An industry insider secret for disguising puffy eyes is to apply a light shade of concealer to the dark shadow beneath the puff, then a slightly darker shade on the puff itself. This gives the illusion of a flat even surface and, when executed with a skilled hand, eradicates all signs of a late out.

Powder
Once you are happy with your foundation and concealer, you are ready to seal the deal with some finely milled, translucent powder. Take a fat but flat, natural bristled powder brush and swirl it into the powder, ensuring that the particles work their way up into the brush head then blow any excess away. Hold the brush vertically, with the flat of the bristles against your face, and dust the powder onto the entire eye area, neatly pressing the powder into the sockets and beneath the lower lash line. Without reloading the brush, apply the remaining powder to the areas of your face that are prone to shine.

This is the first and last time you need to use powder for this makeup. Finely milled powder is essential for preventing excess shine, eye makeup from dislodging, and for catching stray particles when applying shadow, but it is no longer the overall necessity it once was. Foundations are growing smarter by the day and are now formulated to give the skin a dewy, moisture rich glow whilst at the same time minimising grease.

If your skin does develop excess shine during wear, remove the problem, don’t add to it. Constant application of powder will make your face look muddy. Rice paper is the best option as it lifts grease and blots shine away. In particular, steer clear of pressed powders if you suffer from oily or acne prone skin. They are bound together with oils and will only exacerbate the problem.

The Canvas
Whether you plan to create a dramatic evening look, or a simple but fresh daytime face, following the guidelines set out in this article will leave you with the perfect canvas on which to work. Colors will appear more vivid and intense; products will have far greater staying power and work to maximum effect. Experiment and, most importantly, have fun!

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